The biggest city we have ever explored!
27.05.2010 - 27.05.2010
5/27 Buenos Aires
Our taxi driver en route to our next hostel, in the Palermo Viejo district, was very vocal about the Madres and Abuelas de la Plaza de Mayo (the women who march for human rights, raising awareness about the “disappeared” political dissenters in the 70s. We spent the day atop a double-decker city tour bus, driving by many historical sites and learning about the predominant Italian immigrant influence in Argentina. The skies threatened rain, so we stayed on the informative ride as long as possible, only stopping once in Boca, home to the soccer darlings Boca Juniors and El Caminito, a colorful artist zone. I wasted no time in finding the most obnoxious (but so worth it!) tourist photo opp, a tango pose with holes for our heads. Hopefully the attached photo will give you as great a laugh as it gave us. We found a tango show to enjoy while we savored an unbelievably tasty steak in mushroom sauce and the most generous wine pour we’ve ever seen. (picture also attached) We staged a tango pose with the dancers and bought the musicians’ CD.
After talking with some of the artists, we hopped back on the bus and returned to our hostel. We explored the Palermo neighborhood and scored when we found La Salamendra, a dulce de leche and mozzarella bar. We devoured an exquisitely fresh, organic salad with flower sprouts and crunchy grape tomatoes. We each had a decadent Italian cappuccino, served with a shot glass of water to cut the sweetness, and we shared a ganache COOKIE and a dulce de leche crepe. I don’t recall ever moaning over a meal as much as I did over this one! Next, we determined that this would be the night for us to taste a little of Buenos Aires nightlife, so we hung out with some well traveled and interesting Aussies for a few hours. They recommended a place for us to have dinner (not that I thought I needed it, after that late afternoon treat!) But we were caught in between being the very first to show up to a club we wanted to check out and its 12:30~1:00 “start time.” So, we checked in at La Cassera. Our waiter could not have treated us any more like VIPs, and much to our surprise, we were the last ones to leave at about 1:30. We ordered a “small” cut of steak, half of which ended up being about 2 bites too much for me. The meat was served with about 8 little ramikans of side dishes, such as mashed pumpkin, artichoke hearts, roasted garlic, a spinach cream sauce, etc. He recommended a 2 for 1 wine deal, so we have a boutique bag with a bottle of wine to share with Romeo and Cecelia tonight. We noticed a very unique dessert of lollipops displayed on a wooden stand rotating to different tables, and when we inquired, our waiter replied that this was the reward for finishing all of our food. He pretended not to notice that I couldn’t finish my steak and let us choose our lollipop anyway. And then, he served us each a glass of champagne and recommended we dip our lollipop in it. This was a classy restaurant, mind you, just with a sense of humor! Neither of us made a dent in our champagne, so he replaced them with a lemon chelo, an incredibly smooth lemon zest digestive shot. What a refreshing finish for our palettes! We headed to the club to watch some talented dancers perform, but eventually the smoke got to us, and we were in bed just after 3:00. What Buenos Aires novices!!